England
August / september 2022
Capital

London

Area

130,279 km²
(3x the Netherlands)

Time

UTC +1

Language

English, Welsh, Cornish

Highest point

Scafell Pike - 978 m

Flag

In 1188, English and French crusaders went to war in the Middle East. The French used a red cross and the English used a white cross. In the 13th century, the king's soldiers used a red cross at the Battle of Lewes to distinguish themselves from the soldiers of the rebellious barons. The flag symbolizes Saint George.


The flag of England and Scotland were combined in 1606 after King James VI of Scotland also became King James I of England. The red cross on a white background of Saint George, the patron saint of England, on top of the blue with a white cross of Saint Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland. This flag became the national flag. In 1801 the red cross of the flag of Saint Patrick (Northern Ireland) was added to the flag of Great Britain. This flag is the current flag.


Itinerary
Currency

The English pound comes from the Troy Pound unit of weight.     The Sterling was introduced in 1158 by Henry II of England.     Sterling is derived from the old French Esterlin and means 'strong' or 'steadfast'. The pound sterling was used as a key currency in the world during the 18th and 19th centuries, until about the end of the First World War. Queen Elizabeth is depicted on the banknote.




Coast to Coast

The 309 km Coast to Coast walk was conceived by Alfred Wainwright. He published a book featuring the walk in 1973. Until August 12, 2022, it was an unofficial and largely unmarked route. It runs west to east through three national parks, Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors, from St Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea. Alfred Wainwright was a guidebook author and illustrator. He published numerous books. Alfred Wainwright died in 1991 and his ashes were scattered at Innominate Tarn near the Haystacks above Ennerdale Water.


Day 1
St Bees - Ennerdale Bridge


The Coast to Coast hike begins at the coast to coast monument in St Bees. The path climbs up and follows the coastline to a quarry after which the path becomes a narrow road that takes you inland to Sandwith. After Sandwith, much of it is unpaved until Moor Row where a bike path curves around it. At Cleator another stretch of road follows and then begins a climb to the Dent, 352 meters. The Dent lies on the border of the Lake District National Park. The Lake District is known for its lakes, hills and associations with William Wordworth, Beatrice Potter and John Ruskin. Established in 1951, the National Park has 15 lakes and 60 mountain peaks, including the highest in England, Scafell Pike, at 978 meters. It receives about 15 million visitors a year. The Windermere, with a length of 18 km, a maximum width of 1.5 km and a depth of 67 meters, is the largest lake in England formed 13,000 years ago during the last Ice Age.

The descent of the Dent is steep over grass and can be treacherously slippery when it has rained. Through a beautiful valley, the trail gradually climbs north and the final section just after a cattle grid is via a narrow path next to the road to Ennerdale Bridge. The Shepherds Arms hotel is well known as an overnight stop for Coast to Coast hikers.


Day 2
Ennerdale Bridge - Rosthwaite


Day 2 follows a stretch of road to Ennerdale Water. This is the westernmost lake in the Lake District and is a glacial lake 4 km long, 700 to 1,500 meters wide and 45 meters deep. The trail winds along the south shore toward the east. By mid-August, the heather is in bloom. It is a particularly beautiful path. At a curve named Robin Hood's seat some scrambling follows. After the lake, the trail goes to the other side of Ennerdale after which a gradually ascending wide gravel road leads to the Black Sail hut. After the hut, a steep climb begins to about 550 meters. Once at the top, the trail bends to the left where it climbs again along the flank of the Grey Knotts. Where the trail bends to the left you can take a side trip to Innominate Tarn. Turn diagonally left through a gate that leads to Blackbeck Tarn with beautiful views of Buttermere and Crummock Water. Behind the tarn is a clear trail that when following to the left leads to Innominate Tarn where Wainwright's ashes were scattered. Follow the same route back again. Once past the Grey Knotts, the trail descends toward a wide gravel road that leads from a quarry to a visitor center of the quarry. The trail runs parallel to this road. After the visitor center, you descend partly on the road and on trails to the small town of Rosthwaite that is the center for some of the best Lakeland hikes.


Day 3
Rosthwaite - Grasmere


The Coast to Coast trail resumes just outside Rosthwaite and follows the Stonethwaite Beck south. The trail is bounded on both sides by the typical English dry stone walls. Where two valleys meet, the trail climbs steadily up the left side along the Greenup gill (a narrow stream) to Greenup Edge. At the top, it is difficult to determine where to go. After descending for a while you have to climb again and then you'll have a choice to take the original route through the Easedale further down or the high variant along Calf Crag and Helm Crag. At Helm Crag you can admire a special rock formation: The Lion and the Lamb. After Helm Crag follows a descent to the village of Grasmere known for its little Ginger Bread store. There is a line at the door here every day. Another famous spot is Tweedies Bar & Lodge which is named after Mickey Moscrop who was also known as "Tweedie". He was a celebrity for his humor, baritone voice, poëtic words and high-quality Tweeds. Born in Scotland, Mickey came to Grasmere every year between 1922 and 1976 to sell his Tweeds. In Grasmere there are also two houses where Beatrice Potter and William Wordsworth lived.


Day 4
Grasmere - Patterdale


From the center of Grasmere, the route goes back a short way along yesterday's route. It then curves right along a quiet country road to where it crosses the A591. On the opposite side of the road a path leads through the Great Thong up to Grisedale Tarn, a mountain lake at 540 meters. Here, you can choose to go down to Patterdale directly (the original path) or the alternative route to the summit of the 950-meter-high Helvellyn. It is the third highest mountain in England (Scafell Pike is 978 meters and Scafell is 964 meters) From the summit you have great views of the Red Tarn and Ullswater. From here you can follow an easy ascent to the left by way of Swirral Edge or a challenging descent via Striding Edge. The first part of the path is particularly steep and is definitely not for those with a fear of heights. Down in the Grisedale you then rejoin to the original route to Patterdale. Wainwright spent the night here at The Old Water View B&B.


Day 5
Patterdale - Shap


Today is a long hike that continues at the B&B via the bridge over the Goldrill Beck and after a few houses a path climbs to Angle Tarn, descending briefly but then continuing to rise above 700 meters. The views to all sides are fabulous. At the High Street there's the turnoff to Kidsty Pike. At 780 meters this is the highest point of the Coast to Coast walk. After Kidsty Pike follows a steep descent to the 6 km long Haweswater reservoir. The trail follows the left bank on a narrow path where you must be careful to stay on the path with your right foot. After the dam the path goes through a forest and then across gently sloping meadows toward a bridge to Rosgill and just before that to the right to a Packhorse Bridge over the Swindale beck to the ruins of Shap Abbey which dates from 1199. The abbey was closed in 1540 and sold to the governor of Carlisle. Most of the buildings have been demolished but the tower is still prominent. It also markes the end of the Lake District. The last part is along a narrow road that is is enclosed on both sides by walls, which makes it difficult when a car tries to pass.


Day 6
Shap - Orton


After yesterday's brisk hike comes a relatively short hike to Orton. The first section goes through the long main street of Shap and further across a meadow to the southwest to the M6 highway which is crossed by a footbridge. From here onward to the southeast and the noise of the highway is stressfull after the silence of the past few days. Just beyond the M6 you walk unnoticed into the approximately 2000 km2 Yorkshire Dales NP. Meadows of heather and slabs of heavily eroded rocks follow, a bizarre sight. The last part is a gradual ascent and after a road you descend to the village of Orton. The All Saints Church dates from the 13th century. There is also a small chocolate factory, Kennedy's.


Day 7
Orton - Kirkby Stephen


For the first small stretch from Orton, you have two options. The southern option follows the road a while. The northern option is to follow the trail from yesterday in reverse and after the first farm turn right and the path goes through the yards of a couple of farms. At some point the southern option rejoins and continues through meadows and then follows a stretch of road just past Sunbiggin. It is followed by a wide path across Ravenstonedale Moor. This is followed again by meadows and at Begin Hill, a descent to Smardale Bridge. Here you can make a small round trip to the Smardale Viaduct over which a railroad line ran until 1960. Since then it has been a footpath. The viaduct was built in 1861, has 14 arches and is 168 meters long. The Smardale Bridge is followed by another climb with beautiful views. A long descent to Kirkby Stephen. In the church of Kirkby Stephen you can admire an 8th century stone with an image of the Norse god Loki. Due to the size of the stone you can easily overlook it but it is located immediately in front of you when entering the church. South of Kirkby Stephen are two castle ruins, Lammerside Caste and Pendragon Castle. The latter is said to have belonged to Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur.


Day 8
Kirkby Stephen - Keld


Day 8 starts with a tough climb, first by road and then a trail to the Nine Standards Rigg at 662 meters. These nine towers of stacked stones are at least 800 years old and are all different in shape. It also marks the watershed in England. The walk continues across the endless, and very boggy moorland. At the top, the Coast to Coast trail splits into three directions, each part of the year to spare nature. After a descent, the trail follows the Whitsundale Beck to Ravenseat, a welcome break in the hike. From here it is another hour to Keld which is on the Swale River. The last bit is by road to the Keld Lodge.



Day 9
Keld - Reeth


Today has a choice between the low route that follows the Swale River and the high route that passes a number of old lead mines. The choice initially falls on the low route. From the Keld lodge descend to the small village of Keld and cross the Swale. On the other side you'll find the East Gill Force, a beautiful waterfall. The trail runs at elevation along the Swale for a bit on the east side and then drops toward the river again passing many narrow passages through walls. Just before Ivelet is a beautiful bridge over the Swale and not much later you are in the village of Gunnerside. Here we decided to include something of the mines in the walk and climb up the Gunnerside Gill along a narrow path. Just after the derelict Bunting mine, the high variant of the Coast to Coast walk turns right through a steep valley that emerges onto the plateau a little further on. This stretch is only interesting because of the remains of the mines such as a Stone Crusher and the ruines of the Old Gang Smelting Mill that you reach over a wide gravel path. Once in civilization you'll can admire Surrender Bridge which appears in the series All Creatures, Great and Small. Then another stretch of heather follows and the path leads down to Reeth, a charming village with a center where the houses stand around a large grassy field.


Day 10
Reeth - Richmond


From the field in Reeth the route initially follows the road past the bridge after which a path leads to Grinton Bridge, crossing the road and alongside the river to Ewelop Hill where you can take an alternative route through the meadow to Marrick Abbey instead of by road. At the rear of the abbey the path climbs through Steps wood to the village of Marrick, after which the route continues over rolling meadows. Just before Marske the route continues on the road, through Marske, then again meadows and then over a stream for the last climb to Applegate Scar. From here you descend very gradually, partly by road, partly via an adjacent path, to Richmond where you leave the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

Richmond is the most duplicated British place name (56 worldwide). Richmond was founded in 1071 by Alan Rufus, nephew of William the Conqueror. The castle dates from 1086 and from the keep you have a beautiful view of the town. The Green Howards regiment was founded here during the 1st World War. The castle became army barracks. There was also a 19th century cell block in the castle that was in use until the 2nd World War. In St Agatha Church, downstream of the Swale, you can admire frescoes from the 13th century. Next to the church are the ruins of Easby Abbey which was founded in 1152


Day 11
Richmond - Danby Wiske


The next two days are over fairly flat terrain, mainly roads, fields and meadows. At Brompton on Swale, at the end of a farm, the walk passes underneath the M1 motorway. Today's route is not really interesting. As a welcome break there is Kiplin Hall. In this mansion you will still find the properties of the former residents, one of which was George Calvert, the founder of the American state of Maryland. The last part of todays walk is through corn fields just before Danby Wiske.


Day 12
Danby Wiske - Osmotherley


Today is also not a very interesting day. After a long stretch of road from Danby Wiske you then walk through fields to the Wray house where you have to pass a fence where all kinds of things have been placed such as a witches broom, a skull and plastic rats. Also, a recording of a witches voice is triggered when you pass. A little further you'll pass a railway line and then continue via farms to the A19, a two-lane road that is very busy. Now that the Coast to Coast becomes a national walk, this hopefully will be adjusted. The weird thing is that along the road on the other side has a sign saying 'no public footpath'. And when you leave the town of Ingleby Arncliffe there is the sign again. Ingleby Arncliffe also marks the boundary of the last national park on this route, the North York Moors. There is a steep climb followed by a descent to Osmotherley, a picturesque town.


Day 13
Osmotherley - Clay Bank (great Broughton)


From Osmotherley there is a steep climb that connects at the top with the Cleveland Way, a route that is followed for a long time. After a stretch through the moors, there is a descent through a forest and then five climbs along the edge with continuous views of the plain. A beautiful route that ends up at the Wain Stones on the last ascent, a jagged rock formation. The walk ends after a descent at the parking lot from where you will be picked up and taken to a hotel. The North York Moors were designated a National Park in 1952. The park has an area of about 1430 km2.


Day 14
Clay Bank - Lion Inn


From the hotel you will be taken back to Clay Bank where you will start the day again with a climb. Once at the top you walk all day on the plateau where you leave the Cleveland Way halfway, at Bloworth Crossing. The route is almost flat between the moors until you arrive at the Lion Inn. This café, with very thick walls, dates back to 1558 and has been in use as an inn for 4 centuries. It is located at an altitude of 404 meters and is regularly exposed to extreme weather, such as in December 2010 when the guests were snowed in for a couple of days.


Day 15
Lion Inn - Grosmont


Continue along the road across the plateau towards the north and later to the northeast, partly along the road and partly via paths. After a turn you continue on a wide path that follows the crest of a hill and descends gradually to the village of Glaisdale where you leave the moors behind you. Continue through the valley of the Esk River and through the East Arncliff Wood to Egton Bridge, after which the path leads to the town of Grosmont. Grosmont is known for its old station and the steam trains that run from there to Pickering. Through a long pedestrian tunnel in the village you reach the shed where the locomotives are housed. Volunteers maintain the railway and locomotives.


Day 16
Grosmont - Robin Hood's Bay


The last day of the Coast to Coast doesn't start very well, a very long steep climb over an asphalt road that ends again in the moor on top of the hill. Cross a road and descend to Littlebeck where you walk south through the forest along the May-Beck. Further into the forest you can admire the Falling Foss, a waterfall. From here you walk a little further south and then sharply to the left up a road that leads to the moors again. The route continues north as far as Hawsker and after a caravan park it finally arrives at the North Sea where you rejoin the Cleveland Way. Along a beautiful coastal path you walk south to Robin Hood's Bay where the Coast to Coast walk ends. With your feet in the water you throw your pebble, which you brought from the beach at St Bees, into the sea.